Monday, December 1, 2008

Skiing in the High Country

North Carolina’s ski season cranked up early this year as cold weather invaded the mountains well before Thanksgiving. This created the perfect scenario for a late November ski trip to the High Country, where I decided to tackle two of the state’s most popular ski resorts: Sugar Mountain and Ski Beech.

I left Raleigh early afternoon on Friday and rolled into Banner Elk three and a half hours later. The 210-mile trip was surprisingly easy, especially the stretch of U.S. 421 from Winston-Salem to Boone, now four lanes all the way.

As darkness descended our party checked into the Blueberry Villa, a posh eight-room Italian villa located at Banner Elk Winery. The villa is run by Dede Walton. Her husband, Dick Wolfe, operates the winery.

By 6:30 p.m., we were in the winery and enjoying a tasting with Wolfe, whose wines have won multiple gold and double-gold medals at the North Carolina State Fair here in Raleigh. We sampled several excellent wines, including Seyval Blanc, Chardonnay, Banner Elk White, Banner Elk Red and the Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery is a pioneer in the High Country and Wolfe works with local tobacco farmers to convert their crops to grapes.

Back at the villa, dinner was catered in and we enjoyed a low-key evening around the table as a fire crackled in the main room.

Saturday morning, we made the 10-minute drive from Banner Elk up to Beech Mountain for a day at Ski Beech. The ascent up Beech Mountain was beautiful as the sun reflected off the snow-covered ground.

Ski Beech, at 5,506 feet, is the highest ski area in Eastern North America. The Costin family, which owns the resort, spent a bunch of money this offseason on new snow guns and snow-grooming equipment, and the results were obvious. The base was already over 20 inches and several trails were open.

The nice thing about Ski Beech is the ride to the summit. A high-speed quad zooms up the mountain, where you unload in a covered chalet. The view is spectacular from the top, although I didn’t make too many runs from there. I preferred the intermediate trails that cut a wide swath across the mountain.

Ski Beech added tubing this year and a second terrain park, where I saw snowboarders taking full advantage of the mounds and features. There’s also an ice skating rink at the center of the resort’s Alpine village.

All in all, Ski Beech provided an excellent skiing experience. The resort has enough open space to handle a lot of skiers so we never felt cramped.

Although Ski Beech offers night skiing, we elected for a cozy fireplace dinner at Jackalope’s View. Located midway down the mountain, Jackalope’s overlooks Banner Elk and Sugar Mountain. We enjoyed a superb meal of pecan-crusted fresh mountain trout, shrimp ziti pasta and all-natural pork tenderloin with black bean puree and chimichuri sauce.

Now I know why the restaurant has the word "view" in its name. We gazed at a 180-degree view highlighted by night skiing at Sugar, our next destination.

Sunday morning, we made the short drive to Sugar Mountain Resort. Sugar has a summit elevation of 5,300 feet, and boasts the most vertical drop in the High Country: 1,200 feet. Sugar also has the only double black diamond run in North Carolina, but I left that to the experts.

Like the day before, plenty of trails were already open so early in the season. I spent a lot of time on the intermediate runs, particularly the upper flying mile. There was a very good base. The resort took advantage of cold temperatures the night before to make a ton of new snow.

Sugar Mountain’s operation – which included a terrain park, ice skating, snowshoeing and tubing – was very efficient. That made for a great day of skiing before making a final run at 2 p.m. and heading for the parking lot.

Less than four hours later we were back in Raleigh, although the High Country was still on our minds.

For detailed info on skiing in the NC High Country, visit http://www.skithehighcountry.com/.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Running the Rivers of Columbia, SC

When the call came in from a longtime friend inviting me to check out his adventure guide service in the capital city to our south, Columbia, SC, I had to check a map to make certain it was within a tank of gas to qualify for this column. Surprisingly it was a drive of only about three hours. He instead suggested I try Amtrak from downtown Raleigh for a roundtrip fare of 68 bucks. It sounded like a good way to catch up on some reading, so I gave it a shot. The train experience was better than expected, quite clean and comfortable actually, though the schedule required a bit of planning to avoid sleep deprivation. The Silver Streak comes through Raleigh on the Friday night southbound route around 9 p.m., arriving in Columbia at 1:30 a.m. The northbound return departs Columbia Monday mornings at 2 a.m., arriving back in Raleigh at 6:30 a.m.

Columbia is fortunate to have three rivers flowing through an area they call the Riverbanks Region, and the rivers are ideal for outdoor recreation. We spent the morning kayaking amongst the rapids of the Congaree River, which flows right through the city and is paralleled by an extensive network of well-manicured greenways. Lots of people were running and biking on the trails, but we ran on the river rocks. I managed to follow closely behind my guide as he worked his way through a mile course of boulders. We occasionally waded across shallow areas, and as the afternoon heat arrived, swam in the deeper pools fed by an invigorating and refreshing current.

After soaking in some sunshine to dry off the shorts and shoes, we picked up a lunch day pack from nearby Earth Fare and drove 20 miles out of town to Congaree National Park, where we walked the 2.4 mile boardwalk loop trail. The park contains one of the country's last remaining stands of old-growth forest, including bald cypress and loblolly pines that reach to 165 feet. Four national record trees are located within the park, and there are more than 150 trees larger than 12 feet in circumference. The forest canopy stands high overhead, enhancing the illusion of perpetual twilight. Barred owls often call during daylight. They say that in the summer, a gentle rain is seldom felt except as a fine mist below the forest's canopy.

The highlight of the trip was the vibrant sports bar scene. My buddy showed me about two dozen hot spots over two nights, each unique in design, location, and social amenities. There's a healthy competition going on down there amid the restaurants to attract sports fans with the best environment for watching ballgames. Every place we visited had comfortable seating, friendly service, and the latest video technology. Since the University of South Carolina is located right downtown, the sidewalk cafes and coffee shops were busy and there was an active college town atmosphere.

If you'd like some help planning a trip to Columbia, just shoot me an email and I'll connect you with my buddy who can steer you in the right direction.

Safe travels!

Monday, September 1, 2008

Kiteboarding at Cape Hatteras

Growing up on the west coast of Florida, I'd spent a lot of time enjoying water sports, so when local shopping center developer Scott Hallihan suggested a One Tank Trip to Cape Hatteras to discover the best kiteboarding destination in the world, located just 217 miles from downtown Raleigh, I was all over it. Many RD readers are familiar with Nags Head, but I suspect few have spent quality time further down the cape near Rodanthe, where the beaches are pristine and less developed.

We departed Raleigh just after lunch on Friday and arrived at REAL Watersports by mid-afternoon in time for kiteboard classroom training. As the wind picked up later in the day we were able to practice flying a small version of the kite from a beach to learn how to control and harness the wind before getting wet on Saturday.

Kiteboarding uses wind power generated by a large kite to pull a rider through the water on a wakeboard. The sport is still in its infancy, but is rapidly growing in popularity as it has become safer due to innovations in kite design and instruction. Early kites were relatively hard to de-power and re-launch in the water. New kite designs are so much easier to master that kiteboarding is now accessible to people from all walks of life. We saw a 9-year old taking lessons, and were told a 75-year old retired surgeon is a regular at the shop. Because the tension on the kite connects to a waist harness worn by the rider, upper body strength is not a prerequisite to enjoy the sport.

Once good kite flying skills are obtained, the next step is bodydragging, where a larger kite is flown and used to drag the student's body through the water. The effect is similar to bodysurfing, but with an upward lift component. Let me tell you from firsthand experience, this was a blast! The final step is to lie in the water and attach your feet to the board through the foot straps with the board downwind. The kite is then flown left and right until just the right amount of power is captured to lift you up and across the water on the board.

What's really cool at REAL Watersports is that the coach is right there with you on a personal water craft, so when you take off, you have an expert following alongside to teach you how to tack safely back to shore. They operate a first class, waterfront training center that's stocked to the gills with gear. And the location they selected to build their center is perfectly situated on the part of the Cape that gets the most consistent cross-shore wind. It's protected by a small island that serves to buffer offshore waves and create a smooth, slick surface. The water depth of the sound in this area is waist high for miles, and the clean sandy bottom makes this an ideal area to learn. Finally, the winds are excellent in the fall and the water temperature stays warm enough in the sound for kiteboarding through October.

Last year REAL Watersports taught over 6,000 new riders how to kiteboard. Their most successful way of teaching is a Kite Camp program which was recently ranked the #5 Adventure Camp in the World by Outside Magazine. These 3-day camps provide the ultimate full immersion experience and they even set you up with all the equipment. Our coach was Jason Slezak, one of the world's best kiteboarders. Formerly a competitive snowboarder and whitewater kayaker, Jason has been kiting since 1999 and tells some amazing stories of his experiences on oceans around the world, including kiting with the ffounders of Google and the CEO of the company building Richard Branson's space shuttle.

If you'd like to give kiteboarding a try, check out http://www.realwatersports.com/, and then shoot me an email to connect with Jason. He can help you get all lined up with gear and lessons. We're also looking to see if there's enough interest to round up a dozen people for a 3-day weekend camp in October.

Travel tip:
There's a variety of accommodations available in the area, from campgrounds to motels to condos and houses, as well as dozens of places to eat. Our favorite restaurant was Oceanas Bistro, where we had a superb piece of tuna and washed the salt water from the day down with a few pints of Guinness. Nightlife options are few and far between, so plan to get to get some rest after dinner and rise early to get back out on the water.

Movie tip:
Look for "A Night in Rodanthe" starring Richard Gere & Diane Lane due out September 26.

Friday, August 1, 2008

Golf at Tobacco Road in Pinehurst





Pinehurst was an easy 75 minute drive down US1 from Raleigh, and the final 5 minutes or so was remarkable enough to prompt me to hang up the cell phone and pay closer attention to the surroundings. I reduced speed as the streets gradually narrowed, and rolled down the windows to catch the smell of freshly cut lawns and seasonal blooms as the day faded away.




My plan was to spend an evening in luxurious comfort near the golf course I had selected to play the next morning, Tobacco Road, which zig zags among the ancient sand dunes near Sanford, NC. It's reputed to be one of the ten toughest courses in America, so it was with an expectation of being bruised and battered by the game on Saturday morning that I checked in to The Carolina.

A National Historic Landmark built in 1901, the 220-room resort exudes Southern hospitality. The entrance is very dramatic and quite grand actually, and the bellmen provide such a sincere welcome that I thought they remembered me from a brief visit for lunch last summer. As we breezed through a friendly and informal check-in process, what looked to be a fun scavenger hunt was moving through the expansive lobby and well mannered kids were searching for clues in the adjacent library.

Our room was spacious and spotless, with all the conveniences you'd expect from a Mobil 4-Diamond Resort, including a large plasma TV, which we never had occasion to turn on by the way. After an invigorating swim in the outdoor pool, we took the complimentary shuttle to The 1895 Grille at The Holly Inn. It was great to enjoy a cocktail before dinner and a nice bottle of wine with our meal knowing the shuttle would be available all night if needed. The Grille offered heart-friendly selections which made it easy for me to order, and I feasted on the pan seared filet of Alaskan halibut. Word to the wise - for a table in this intimate setting, reservations are a must.

After dinner, we walked through the nearby village and discovered an excellent local rock band performing in an underground pub - Dugans. We danced a set and then opted to pass on the shuttle ride back to the resort, and jumped on a couple of comfortable, old fashioned bikes provided by The Holly Inn for a late night cruise around the village.

While my companion enjoyed a Pine Salt Scrub and Holly Berry Back and Foot Treatment at The Spa at Pinehurst Saturday morning, I headed out for a duel with Tobacco Road. The course is mentally challenging because of multiple blind carries, difficult angles and unexpected hazards. I was warned to expect a daunting first hole, and not to be discouraged by a poor score. But I parred the first hole, and halfway through the round was just three strokes over par and feeling quite confident. My concentration was focused, and I was hitting distance and direction targets outlined by the course map. That changed quickly on the back nine, and I scrambled home eighteen shots over par.



If you'd like a more specific recommendation to help plan your own One Tank Trip to the Pinehurst area, feel free to shoot me an email and I will refer you to some wonderful local contacts.

Safe travels!

Thursday, May 1, 2008

Ashe County for Canoeing on the New River

The first things I notice are clear blue skies and the lack of taillights on the two-lane road. I am driving into West Jefferson, NC on Hwy 221. My window is down and a mountainside of aromatic Fraser fir trees skims by on my left. On my right a small herd of buffalo graze the hillside beside a placid lake.

I check to see if this is a leftover set from Last of the Mohicans. But my directions fail to mention that. Just that I am headed into Ashe County, wedged into the top-most northwestern corner of North Carolina, bordering Tennessee and Virginia. It’s been a 3-hour drive from downtown Raleigh, but well worth it as the Friday afternoon air is sweet with blossoms and plants waking up to a late mountain spring and the high clouds to the east, hovering over the Blue Ridge Parkway, are headed out of the area. To the west, only a spectacular sunset awaits as I make the turn off the highway and head toward downtown West Jefferson.

I search for dinner and find myself torn between Frasers – an upscale bistro style restaurant with a lively pub – and the choice of driving out to the Glendale Springs Inn – a beautiful turn of the century farmhouse serving a full dinner menu and a large selection of wine.
It’s still early, however, so I park the car and settle into a smart little cafĂ© called T. Gray’s. A jazz trio is melting the air and the place is filling up with singles. Clearly, this is one of the local watering holes. Other options for nightlife include Frasers Pub with live music – usually classical guitar or R&B, or a neat little place called Bohemia, where you can get a local wine to go with your bluegrass or Celtic music.

So many choices – so little time. And there’s still the "where to stay?" question. To name just two: there’s Buffalo Tavern Bed & Breakfast, a quaint four-bedroom inn with a beautiful view of Bluff Mountain. Run by a retired professor, Innkeeper "Doc" Adams keeps guests entertained with stories amidst the opulence of this 100-plus year-old way station on an old buffalo trail.
And, River House Country Inn, featuring a mile of riverfront on the New River, 180 acres surrounded by mountains & hiking trails, eight beautiful rooms, three spacious cabins close by, and a plentiful breakfast included in the price of the room.

To fill your weekend with activities, Ashe County provides many options. The best hiking is Mount Jefferson State Park, which looms high above the area (elevation 4,400 feet.) You can check out the Summit Trail or the Rhododendron Trail to breathtaking overlooks. These hikes are rated moderate to strenuous but the views are worth the effort!

You can also visit another state park, this one at the river level: the New River State Park has a first-class, brand-new Visitors Center loaded with exhibits and things to do. Here you’ll enjoy the beauty of out-of-the way rugged hillsides, pastoral meadows and bucolic farmlands that surround the New River.

The New River flows 320 miles north through Virginia and into West Virginia, and a float trip up the New River provides beautifully scenic vistas. Formed prior to the uplifting of the Appalachian Mountains, the New River is second only to the Nile as the oldest river in the world. Because of shallow, gentle waters, the river is ideal for canoeing, kayaking and tubing, while the opportunity for occasional minor rapids adds just a bit of excitement to the trip. Higher water levels occur during May and June. August and September are low-flow periods. Canoes, kayaks and tubes may be rented through local outfitters. Try Riverside Canoe and Tube Rentals if you’d like to canoe or tube on the historic New River. And be sure and check out the Riverside General Store. On weekends, owner Bryan Morrison provides plenty of good food, music and down-home fellowship on the banks of the New River.

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Chapel Hill for March Madness

With all due respect to NC Wolfpack and Duke Blue Devil fans, One-Tank Trips heads to NC Tar Heel country this month for March Madness and the metropolitan allure of the Franklin Hotel. Whether you choose to prowl Franklin Street during the ACC Tournament, March 14-16, or during the NCAA Tournament opening rounds, March 21-23, you’ll be in hoops heaven in Chapel Hill.

Fanhood aside, The Franklin Hotel, a new luxury boutique hotel on Franklin Street, is a discovery worth making. Anchoring downtown Chapel Hill’s booming West End, The Franklin is an easy walk to the historic UNC campus, as well as the shops, restaurants, bars, museums, galleries and performing arts venues in this preeminent college town. As your base camp, The Franklin offers unsurpassed comfort and convenience.

Once a quaint collegiate village, Chapel Hill has evolved in to an enclave of sophisticated urban culture. Add the excitement of NCAA basketball and warm spring weather and you have a lively atmosphere offering many opportunities to watch tournament games in bars and restaurants that often match the energy in the arena. We’ll offer up a few suggestions for dining and game watching, but first, let’s check in at The Franklin.

First, you’ll want to linger in the understated elegance of Roberts At The Franklin, the hotel's lobby bar and patio. Roberts exudes casual sophistication. High, carved ceilings soar above the pewter-finished bar and Italian marble fireplace, giving the room a clubby ambience. Double glass doors open to a sidewalk patio offering relaxed outdoor seating. Relax, linger and enjoy.
The Franklin has 67 stylish guestrooms and suites showcasing archival photographs of historic Franklin Street. Each room features either a private patio balcony or arched windows that open to tree-top views. Luxury appointments include a wall-mounted 32" LCD HD TV (important for late-night tournament highlights). If nothing less than a 42" HD TV will do, ask about the luxury penthouse VIP suites where you can really settle in.

If you need a workout before venturing out for an evening with Dicky V., there’s a gym located on the fourth floor overlooking the sunlit atrium. The fitness center features a spacious exercise studio equipped with elliptical, Bowflex treadmill, TreadClimber and Ultimate 2 Gym.

Now you’re ready. You can dive into the student scene and relive undergraduate glories, or keep it more urbane and cosmopolitan. Our tip: mix it up a little. After all, this is March Madness, baby!

For the energy of the student cheering section you can venture into the usual haunts such as Woody’s, He’s Not Here or Goodfella’s (still a favorite). But the best game watching experience for our money is at Ham’s, just across the street from The Franklin. Good grill fare, hard-working bartenders, a rabid Carolina crowd and the Tar Heel sports radio play-by-play blasting over the noise. Hard core only here, please.

At the risk of waking chants of "wine and cheese" (or cheese and wine, as it were) we also recommend West End Wine Bar. They offer over 100 wines by the glass (and PBR in a can) and have excellent TVs behind the bar. A rooftop patio distinguishes West End as Chapel Hill’s only three-floor venue. Yes, there’s more downstairs. The Cellar features three pool tables, a full bar and a 1200-song juke box. This is truly one of Chapel Hill’s best kept secrets.

For a break from roundball, check out Lantern, specializing in simple, authentic Asian food in a sleek urban setting. The striking dining room and bar were designed by N.C. native (and current NYC resident) David Doernberg, a designer working in the film industry. Note the cinematic influence in Lantern’s chic, seductive hideaway bar. Try that exotic cocktail or simply surrender to the expert care of the mixologist on duty.

Another favorite option is 411 West, serving up Mediterranean-inspired pizzas, pastas, seafood and steaks. Score seats at the bar near the cozy warmth of the wood burning pizza oven. The TV is right there and you won’t miss a play.

If you’re still on Franklin St. on Sunday morning, do brunch at Crook’s Corner. Selections ranging from their traditional country breakfast to the gumbo omelet, fried oysters and eggs, and legendary shrimp and grits have earned Crook’s a national reputation for creative Southern fare.

If you need a special incentive to get that certain someone to accompany you on your b-ball adventure, the Franklin Hotel offers a Regal Romance package with flowers, chocolates, chilled champagne and breakfast in bed. There’s also a Date Night on Franklin Street package that may do the trick. Check with the hotel for all details, special services and rates.

The most impressive thing about this to-do list is that these terrific venues, along with several others we would also recommend, are all within a couple blocks of each other. March is a great time to explore Chapel Hill’s West End and discover something new.

Friday, February 1, 2008

Fearington House for a Valentine’s Weekend Getaway

If you’ve not yet planned a Valentine’s Day getaway for that special someone, you may want to pay close attention to this article, the second installment of our One Tank Trips. In search of a romantic rendezvous within a gas tank’s drive to and from downtown Raleigh, we offer you the Fearrington House Country Inn, situated on an 18th Century dairy farm in Pittsboro, a mere 44 miles away. The Inn offers perhaps the finest Southern hospitality a discriminating weekend traveler can experience in this region. It’s a very romantic and impressive destination, and would be a wonderful Valentine’s surprise.

I made reservations at this unique community for a recent weekend to experience the accommodations firsthand. To make my date even more exceptional, I called ahead and had the room prepared with a bottle of chilled champagne, chocolate covered strawberries, and a bouquet of fresh cut flowers. I also scheduled a relaxing and therapeutic in-room massage for two. I hoped these special touches would help take the edge off a long workweek and add to the magic of our Friday evening arrival.

Our room had that warm feeling you long for when staying away from home with someone you care about. Each of the 32 guest rooms at the Inn is unique, surrounded by stunning vistas of trellised gardens, water sculptures, and manicured English gardens. Rich fabrics, marble vanities, and heated towel racks all cater to the guest’s personal comfort. Distinctive touches include ecclesiastical doors used as headboards, canopied beds, and pine flooring from an old workhouse that sat along the River Thames. The rooms also include luxurious amenities such as plush feather beds, micro-fiber robes, and spa-quality bath products.

The Inn’s dining rooms feature views of the Fearrington gardens, and each is furnished with European antiques and accented with original artwork that creates an understated elegance. On Saturday the food was bountiful, starting with a fantastic gourmet breakfast that included seasonal fresh-cut fruit, homemade granola, and eggs benedict. After a picnic lunch on the grounds, we were served a traditional mid-afternoon English tea with finger sandwiches, delicate pastries, and fresh baked scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam. Saturday evening dinner was over the top. We took our time and worked our way through all five courses with decadent pleasure.

The Fearrington wine list features over 700 selections and the Inn has been awarded the 'Best of Award of Excellence' from The Wine Spectator every year since 2004. This extensive wine list was created to complement a regional cuisine, and in our case, it was a main course of North Carolina Red Drum served with black trumpet mushrooms and shrimp tortellini, resting in a blanket of saffron and vanilla sauce.

There was plenty to do between meals, so we elected to stroll the expansive grounds, browse unique village shops, exercise, and relax on front porch rockers complete with a serene pasture setting of cattle and goats. Fearrington Village has over 30 Belted Galloways grazing along the rolling pastures. These black and white "Oreo" cows are actually a rare breed of Scottish beef cattle introduced to the United States back in the 1950's.

For a truly romantic One Tank Trip, the Fearrington House Country Inn is high on our list. We found ‘farm life’ to be quite intriguing, therapeutically relaxing, and worth the short drive. If you prefer to stay within the confines of downtown Raleigh (not technically a One Tank Trip, but great for spending a weekend "away from home"), you might consider one of the local Inns listed below.

Happy Valentine’s Day planning from the Downtowner and One Tank Trips!

Farrington House
2000 Fearrington Village Ctr.
Pittsboro, NC 27312
919.542.2121
http://www.fearrington.com/

Local Inns:
Cameron Park Inn
Located just off Hillsborough Street at the N.C. State University Bell Tower in Raleigh, you'll discover a delightful place to stop and spend the night, take a mid-week break or settle in for a weekend's relaxation.
211 Groveland Avenue, Raleigh, NC 27605
919.835.2171 or 888.257.2171
innkeeper@cameronparkinn.com
http://www.cameronparkinn.com/

The Oakwood Inn Bed & Breakfast
Nestled in the beautiful Historic Oakwood neighborhood, the Oakwood Inn Bed & Breakfast welcomes you to a stay in one of their comfortable guestrooms in this historic home from the Victorian Era. Voted the Best of CitySearch 2007 Winner: Best Bed & Breakfast, Best Business Hotel, Best Tourist Hotel, and Best Staff.
411 North Bloodworth Street
Raleigh, NC 27604
919.832.9712 or 800.267.9712
innkeepers@OakwoodInnBB.com
http://www.oakwoodinnbb.com/

Velvet Cloak Villas
Located downtown, the Villas are condominiums transformed from the plush Hotel rooms of one of the area’s finest Inns. Boasting some of the best views of Raleigh, the Velvet Cloak Villas beckon to elite visitors from across the state and around the region. Suites come in a variety of sizes from large studios to 2,400 square feet.
1505 Hillsborough Street
Raleigh, NC 27605
919.828.0333
http://www.thevelvetcloak.com/